I am finding the standard superglue brands increasingly frustrating:
The tubes often seem to have been filled with water rather than superglue - took me 4 minutes to attach a head this morning. Although they instantly bind anything to my fingers.
And they either don't produce enough glue when I squeeze the tube or they produce an enormous spurt that drenches half the model.
Plus they gum up veery quickly so half the tube is wasted, even after I implemented more efficient tube management techniques.
I just buy pound shop superglue where you get a dozen tubes for a pound. OK it goes off half way down the tube, it's not too much of a problem
Trouble is, I find them even less effective at adhering to things than the branded SGs.
I find lack of adhesion can be an issue with some manufacturers's figures, which is possibly due to the mould releasing agent used. It helps to wash the castings in warm water and washing up liquid first, then scrub off any residue with a toothbrush.
Using a gel-type superglue also helps to stop the stuff from spurting everywhere.
Cheers
Mick
Thanks yes I have tried the gel and it certainly solves, although I find this takes even longer to set than the liquid. I don't know if there's some new EU regulations or something which have stopped glue manufacturers from using any effective ingredients!
Anyway have ordered some Revell "Contacta" off E-Bay.
not sure if you have read any of this thread? http://soa.org.uk/sm/index.php?topic=1061.0
I use rocket, buy a couple of bottles each year off the Interweb.
Never had any issues with it.
I've tried the "pound shop" option but I don't really use enough glue to make it worth while - each time I sit down I need a new tube because it will have hardened since the last session. So I've gone back to more expensive named brands because they will last for months in their bottles. Currently using good old Loctite, which keeps well.
Also, you need a glue that dries clear, especially for repairs to painted figures. Unfortunately, I know no way of telling the glues that do this other than trial and error.
I use Gorilla Super Glue for figures - $5.24 plus shipping at Amazon:
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=lm&q=gorilla+superglue&ia=products&iai=B001IY82FMhttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41nNuDE7mbL.jpghttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41nNuDE7mbL._SL160_.jpg
I use Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue Max for basing - $5.95 at Walmart:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Elmer-s-Carpenter-s-Wood-Glue-MAX-4-fl-oz/17011277
I tend to use 8-hour twin-pak epoxy both for sticking figures to bases and attaching weapons to hands, etc. Yes, I know it takes 24 hours to harden properly, during which time the bits often need supporting. However...
- It really does give a tough bond
- It generally dries transparent
- It leaves one plenty of time to rearrange parts to get exactly the right position
8) 8) 8)
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
I took myself down to the good people at Games Workshop in the end. I think they were amazed that an historical wargamer actually wanted to speak to them, rather than running a mile from their usual sales pitch.
They sold me some brush on Superglue, and a bottle of adhesive for plastics with a very long, thin applicator. Both of which have so far proved worth their weight in gold (£4.30 each).
I also somehow came out with a £9 plastic 30mm model of a sorceress, even though they didn't try to sell it to me!
I also occaisionally pop in GW for paint Harry. I normally wait for the innevitable chirpy 'hello sir and what army are you paiting at the minute' sales pitch and then look them in the eye and respond with any equally cheery 'Seleucids' before watching a play of emotions on their face going from quizzical to dawning realization and finally crestfallen.
:)
Quote from: eques on February 26, 2016, 11:20:37 PM
They sold me some brush on Superglue, and a bottle of adhesive for plastics with a very long, thin applicator. Both of which have so far proved worth their weight in gold (£4.30 each).
If the plastic glue is like the revell version, the thin metal tube clogs easily. Neat trick I found in a modelling magazine is to remove tube and place over naked flame, which burns off the blockage. Wait to cool, replace tube.
Quote from: Holly on February 27, 2016, 07:23:21 AM
I also occaisionally pop in GW for paint Harry. I normally wait for the innevitable chirpy 'hello sir and what army are you paiting at the minute' sales pitch and then look them in the eye and respond with any equally cheery 'Seleucids' before watching a play of emotions on their face going from quizzical to dawning realization and finally crestfallen.
:)
Not that I've often visited GW shops, but the times I've done so I've never been approached in that way. Maybe their Swedish shops have adapted their approach to introverted Scandinavian ways?
I suspect their sales training suggests different approaches to different demographics. As an obviously old person, they just need to check whether I want some GW-universe product as a gift for the grandchildren and am worth investing the patter in. If not, just accept a quick sale to keep the tills churning :)
Quote from: Erpingham on February 27, 2016, 09:32:33 AM
I suspect their sales training suggests different approaches to different demographics. As an obviously old person, they just need to check whether I want some GW-universe product as a gift for the grandchildren and am worth investing the patter in. If not, just accept a quick sale to keep the tills churning :)
I suspect you're right. I don't go in often but confuse them because I can remember the original 40k set of rules, Rogue Trader
and I can remember (and still have) the original Warhammer rules Jim :)
Quote from: Holly on February 27, 2016, 04:28:01 PM
and I can remember (and still have) the original Warhammer rules Jim :)
I still have them as well.
Looking at the ranges and the importance of melee I was told that they originally evolved from a set of pike and shot rules 8)
Jim
I bought my set purely to refight Battle of Pelennor Fields....but used them for Medieval stuff too :)
If you are doing plastics, you must try the brush on dope.
It sort of melts it together.
Modelling dope is evil stuff Mark. I can still remember the fumes from when I used to build tissue and balsa wood gliders
Quote from: Holly on February 28, 2016, 07:19:37 AM
Modelling dope is evil stuff Mark. I can still remember the fumes from when I used to build tissue and balsa wood gliders
All he remembers is the fumes, after that it becomes hazy what with the pink whales chasing him round the garden and turning into bowls of petunias 8)
Quote from: Jim Webster on February 28, 2016, 08:46:10 AM
Quote from: Holly on February 28, 2016, 07:19:37 AM
Modelling dope is evil stuff Mark. I can still remember the fumes from when I used to build tissue and balsa wood gliders
All he remembers is the fumes, after that it becomes hazy what with the pink whales chasing him round the garden and turning into bowls of petunias 8)
Um....and that your honour is the case for the defence ::)
Quote from: Holly on February 28, 2016, 11:14:43 AM
Quote from: Jim Webster on February 28, 2016, 08:46:10 AM
Quote from: Holly on February 28, 2016, 07:19:37 AM
Modelling dope is evil stuff Mark. I can still remember the fumes from when I used to build tissue and balsa wood gliders
All he remembers is the fumes, after that it becomes hazy what with the pink whales chasing him round the garden and turning into bowls of petunias 8)
Um....and that your honour is the case for the defence ::)
8)
The new stuff from this century is much better
Quote from: Erpingham on February 27, 2016, 08:36:21 AM
Quote from: eques on February 26, 2016, 11:20:37 PM
They sold me some brush on Superglue, and a bottle of adhesive for plastics with a very long, thin applicator. Both of which have so far proved worth their weight in gold (£4.30 each).
If the plastic glue is like the revell version, the thin metal tube clogs easily. Neat trick I found in a modelling magazine is to remove tube and place over naked flame, which burns off the blockage. Wait to cool, replace tube.
The carefree way in which people apply naked flames to substances never ceases to amaze me. ::) I mean, I know it's only a single tube, but have you seen what can happen when it all goes wrong with glue?
http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2012/04/23/national/one-dead-22-hurt-as-glue-factory-blows/#.VtR49tCH7Oc (http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2012/04/23/national/one-dead-22-hurt-as-glue-factory-blows/#.VtR49tCH7Oc)
The moral being, don't try this at home.....
I won't mention the heating and flattening of pins to make spears then :)
Araldite. Tough stuff, fills in gaps and you can see it.
Quote from: Dave Beatty on February 25, 2016, 07:37:56 PM
I use Gorilla Super Glue for figures - $5.24 plus shipping at Amazon:
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=lm&q=gorilla+superglue&ia=products&iai=B001IY82FMhttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41nNuDE7mbL.jpghttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41nNuDE7mbL._SL160_.jpg
Just tried this for the first time (£3 for two small tubes at Wilko) and it worked OK for me, certainly better than some superglues.
Quote from: NickHarbud on February 29, 2016, 05:04:19 PM
Quote from: Erpingham on February 27, 2016, 08:36:21 AM
Quote from: eques on February 26, 2016, 11:20:37 PM
They sold me some brush on Superglue, and a bottle of adhesive for plastics with a very long, thin applicator. Both of which have so far proved worth their weight in gold (£4.30 each).
If the plastic glue is like the revell version, the thin metal tube clogs easily. Neat trick I found in a modelling magazine is to remove tube and place over naked flame, which burns off the blockage. Wait to cool, replace tube.
The carefree way in which people apply naked flames to substances never ceases to amaze me. ::) I mean, I know it's only a single tube, but have you seen what can happen when it all goes wrong with glue?
http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2012/04/23/national/one-dead-22-hurt-as-glue-factory-blows/#.VtR49tCH7Oc (http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2012/04/23/national/one-dead-22-hurt-as-glue-factory-blows/#.VtR49tCH7Oc)
The moral being, don't try this at home.....
It isn't as bad as that.
The Revell glue is in a sort of plastic bottle with a long metal tube protruding. If this is blocked, you take off the whole metal tube and, as mentioned, hold that over a flame. The (tiny) solidified blockage vaporises and burns off. The flame isn't anywhere near the rest of the glue (unless you _really_ want it to be).
Quote from: Duncan Head on March 07, 2016, 09:16:59 AM
Quote from: Dave Beatty on February 25, 2016, 07:37:56 PM
I use Gorilla Super Glue for figures - $5.24 plus shipping at Amazon:
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=lm&q=gorilla+superglue&ia=products&iai=B001IY82FMhttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41nNuDE7mbL.jpghttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41nNuDE7mbL._SL160_.jpg
Just tried this for the first time (£3 for two small tubes at Wilko) and it worked OK for me, certainly better than some superglues.
I use the Gorilla Super Glue Gel. I thought I had bought a duff bottle as it seemed to be solid. I read the bottle and it said to shake well and that liquifies it. I guess it is some kind of thixotropic liquid.
Works well.
Quote from: Swampster on March 10, 2016, 09:06:12 PM
I use the Gorilla Super Glue Gel. I thought I had bought a duff bottle as it seemed to be solid. I read the bottle and it said to shake well and that liquifies it. I guess it is some kind of thixotropic liquid.
Or pseudoplastic. Either way, a good shake (long for thixotropic, hard for pseudoplastic) liquefies it and one can get down to business.
Quote from: Swampster on March 10, 2016, 09:03:17 PM
It isn't as bad as that.
The Revell glue is in a sort of plastic bottle with a long metal tube protruding. If this is blocked, you take off the whole metal tube and, as mentioned, hold that over a flame. The (tiny) solidified blockage vaporises and burns off. The flame isn't anywhere near the rest of the glue (unless you _really_ want it to be).
Thanks Peter. You have more clearly explained what I meant. Apologies to those who thought I was recommending insane risks.
I use Lochtite gel (usually with the control "pads" on the side) for somethings. But I find that for 15mm and for spears and such, UHU glue works very well for fixing. Just requires patience.
Quote from: Swampster on March 10, 2016, 09:06:12 PM
Quote from: Duncan Head on March 07, 2016, 09:16:59 AM
Quote from: Dave Beatty on February 25, 2016, 07:37:56 PM
I use Gorilla Super Glue for figures - $5.24 plus shipping at Amazon:
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=lm&q=gorilla+superglue&ia=products&iai=B001IY82FMhttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41nNuDE7mbL.jpghttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41nNuDE7mbL._SL160_.jpg
Just tried this for the first time (£3 for two small tubes at Wilko) and it worked OK for me, certainly better than some superglues.
I use the Gorilla Super Glue Gel. I thought I had bought a duff bottle as it seemed to be solid. I read the bottle and it said to shake well and that liquifies it. I guess it is some kind of thixotropic liquid.
Works well.
That stuff is incredibly sticky so when using it I am uber careful as opposed to just careful with the £1 a bottle type super glue!
The cheap superglue is money wasted.
Better to spend more on a proper superglue.
Hi All
For metal figures I use Evo Stik Impact adhesive, followed by Rocket Fast Setting super glue to lock say a shield in place. Or just the super glue.
For plastic figures I am using Revell Contacta Professional. Coat both sides- wait a few seconds until the surface is melting then bring the two sides together.
Regards
Peter
Pound shop superglue (eight tubes to the £1 which means I don't care too much if it goes hard on me) and I've moved over to pound shop UHU for basing
Jim
Ah, another Evostik fan. I've always used Evostik Impact - less stringy than UHU, and in my experience more reliable than superglue.
Quote from: John GL on June 13, 2016, 11:23:02 PM
Ah, another Evostik fan. I've always used Evostik Impact - less stringy than UHU, and in my experience more reliable than superglue.
I have used evostik impact for basing, but the pound shop uhu works out cheaper for the same effect but yes, it is more stringy
UHU has always been a favourite for basing and sticking figures to painting sticks and, like Jim, I bought my current tube in the pound shop.
Evo-stick impact for sticking weapons to figures, figures to bases, plastic figures together....in fact I use it for everything except temporarily sticking figures to cardboard when painting: in that case I use a cheap prit-stick type glue stick.
I'd never heard of evostick, but I see I can get it at Amazon USA but it is pricey - $45 for a 1 liter tub.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KMYONVG/ref=s9_hps_bw_g328_i5
UHU I used when I was stationed in Germany, but it too is pricey - https://www.amazon.com/UHU-All-Purpose-Adhesive-125ml/dp/B00JRWZV5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469740679&sr=8-3&keywords=uhu
As noted above, large tubes of UHU are to be found in pound shops, which actually makes it a pretty cheap option in the UK.
OTT but I use hotmelt glue and gun for figure basing. its not as fiddly or time consuming as you would think you just need to have a tray under the nozzle for drips!
big fan of Gorilla (super) glue now. It is really good as I foud when repairing various figures the other day and doesnt mind bare metal or painted for sticking well
Quote from: Erpingham on July 29, 2016, 11:24:05 AM
As noted above, large tubes of UHU are to be found in pound shops, which actually makes it a pretty cheap option in the UK.
Worth checking before you buy, I've found two different sizes of tubes in the same sized pack in one pound shop :o
I swear by Gorilla Super Glue for spears etc. The technique I use is to drop a little into a plastic bottle top (I use those shallow ones from bottled water) and take tiny amounts from it on the end of cocktail sticks, and apply.
When gluing to bases, I cautiously 'stamp' the base of the figure into the glue, having planned the exact position and marked it on the base.
Belatedly, re Games Workshop stores - if you really want the full-on queasy-but-massaging effect, go into the GW Warhammer shop on Tottenham Court Road and ask for Dark Age ship models.... historical. At once like hitting a wasp nest with a stick, and like being one of those predatory solitary wasps that sneak into beehives and release pheromones that make the bees fight each other, while the wasp lays it's eggs.