Black Leather

[David Kush]

Modern popular media clearly has too much black leather on its pre gunpowder historical costuming. What era did blackend leather start being popular. Did some process invented in the 18th century make it more economical?
Sorry this a little out of this groups normal scope. Curious.

[Patrick Waterson]

You are on the right track, David.

From this site:

"A considerable improvement in processing techniques occurred in the 12th century with the result being that between then and the last century, there were no substantial changes to tanning systems.  Even oil tanning was used to produce protective garments while tawing* was widespread although the results were not always satisfactory. Often, finishing operations were carried out to improve the malleability of the leather and improve its appearance, especially by dyeing.  The products, though essentially practical, also met decorative requirements.   

In the fourteenth century, for instance, leather was being used in combination with wood in chairs, arm-chairs, and settles with craftsmanship that reached the levels of an art-form.  This was also the case later on with tapestries (especially in Venice in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries) with chests and cases, and of course, with book bindings, perhaps the most lasting and refined use of the material.  Going back to tanning techniques, it is more or less in the Middle Ages that the depilating action of quick lime was discovered, a technique which is still valid and normally used today.   
   
A radical shake-up was provided in the middle of the last century with the discovery of the tanning power of chrome salts which led to a drastic improvement in production and was applied in practice in industrial production towards the end of the century.  Another revolutionary element was the substitution of the tanning pit with the rotating drum, along with the discovery of new types of tannins.   
   
As a result of all these innovations, the time required for tanning was shortened incredibly from eight months to a year, to a period of a few days today."

*Tawing: "Egyptians became skilled at curing the skins to become leather by the tawing method—that is, by the use of alum or salt. Tawing yields a white, stiff leather that may be dyed various colours." - Encyclopaedia Britannica

White leather (from tawing) seems to have been popular during the classical era.  Black leather, especially in coat form, seems to have taken off only in the first quarter of the 20th century.

A brief introduction to leatherworking can be found here.

[Jim Webster]

Fascinating stuff

Jim

[aligern]

Raffaele D'Amato shows black leather boots on Early Byzantine figures. Illustrations of the time show something black from knee down. That may be cloth or leather.

The Moors are supposed to wear leather clothing, presumably goatskin and this , if it is the material worn by the Trajan's column Moors appears quite pliable, so They were capable of making a material that was light and pliable.

Leather strapping might well have been oiled to preserve it and that would have rendered it almost black, certainly on a 15mm figure, probably on a 28.

Roy

[Duncan Head]

Chinese sources often show belts and boots as black, from at least the Tang period - see this one for instance. I would assume they're leather.

[Swampster]

Pliny the Elder gives the process for making atramentum sutorium - "the black dye that is used for colouring leather".
http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A1999.02.0137%3Abook%3D34%3Achapter%3D32
Seems to be copper sulphate and iron sulphate. Sounds like the process is a grand version of classroom style crystal growing.

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ox0AAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA48&lpg=PA48&dq=iron+sulphate+black+leather&source=bl&ots=tfsn1qcLyC&sig=VblVcCZjy5jhklut9gsJVx67w60&hl=en&sa=X&ei=pRZcU-6DGMTkOvDlgfgH&ved=0CFAQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q=iron%20sulphate%20black%20leather&f=false is a 19th century book which says that iron sulphate was the main way of producing leather even then.

Sites I came across mentions that the black leather was apparently weaker than other leather though one said this is due to the acidity of the solution and another that the iron itself damages the leather over time.